Claudio's: A Long Island Dining Institution Satisfying Stomachs for 139 Years

June 25, 2009 6:25 pm

Claudio's: A Long Island Dining Institution Satisfying Stomachs for 139 Years

$Behind the Burner: Claudio\'s: A Long Island Dining Institution Satisfying Stomachs for 139 Years$

With all the rain in New York the past few weeks, it's easy to forget that the summer seafood season is upon us. However, if you go past the city limits, travel to the last exit on the Long Island Expressway, make a right in Riverhead and go straight for about 45 minutes down a two lane road, summer is in full swing.

Claudio's of Greenport, New York is the oldest family-owned restaurant in the country (and seemingly furthest during rush hour on the Jitney), having been maintained by the Claudio's clan for more than a century. Aside from being one of the hottest dining destinations on the North Fork, it also happens to be the family eatery of my dear friend, Jamie Claudio. Having known Jamie for several years, I have had the pleasure of devouring Claudio's award wining lobster bisque on a number of occasions, but this past weekend I had the pleasure of oh so much more. In honor of Jamie's birthday, Mr. and Mrs. Claudio opened up their kitchen (and their bar!) for a special seaside fête.

The first thing I did after plopping my napkin into my lap was order a glass of the Kendall Jackson Chardonnay that I absolutely love. It's light, crisp and generally hard to find by the glass, but at Claudio's, there is always plenty to go around.

Resisting the urge to order the lobster bisque, I actually looked at the menu and decided to go with one of the night's specials for my appetizer, a panko-crusted shrimp and lobster ravioli. Friends and family that were gathered around the table all giggled, as we had each eaten at least one meal at the restaurant before, but few of us had ever closely considered each menu option before. We each grew excited as the option of three pound lobsters and slabs of prime aged beef became even more mouth watering with every sip of wine.

Dining in a family owned restaurant with "the family" has its perks--our food came out of the kitchen with lightening speed. My ravioli were amazing; crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside. The golden panko crumbs provided perfect texture and complemented shrimp and lobster meat, which oozed a velvety sauce that left hints of mushroom and tomato flavors lingering in my mouth. The birthday girl was presented with a plate of raw striped bass that left some diners a little apprehensive. While I do not eat sushi, I will try new things, so braved the first bite. At first the raw texture was a turn-off, but the flavor was pleasantly mild and smooth (a dab of soy sauce helped).

In the spirit of celebration and indulgence, I ordered more wine to go with my calorie-heavy dinner. My panko-fried soft shell crab arrived with a side of truffled macaroni and cheese, leaving me smiling before I even took a bite. Truffles and cheese? Oh my! The thin crust atop my mac and cheese infused each bite with a wonderful texture. After two bites and quite a bit of praise from my end, I began to notice forks flying at me as everyone wanted a taste. I shared with the birthday girl and one or two others, but the only-child in me surfaces really quickly when it comes to sharing my cheese.

The soft shell crab was deep fried with panko breadcrumbs and served with a tangy, rich sauce. Need I say more? The crab was served whole with all its little claws still attached and a breaded, creating a cute, almost comical presentation. As with the ravioli, the bread crumbs were golden brown and crunchy around the tender crabmeat. The crunchy shell was a tad unpleasant, but that is to be expected.

Too full for dessert, we all opted for another round of cocktails instead. We must've been a fun crowd, as Mr. and Mrs. Claudio joined us at the Claudio's Clam Bar, another part of the Claudio dining conglomerate, where the celebration continued until us youngsters departed for another local hotspot. The night continued long into the morning, and I must say that repeatedly getting on and off a swaying boat with a belly full of food and a little too much wine is not something that I recommend.

—Alexis Popov

Claudio's
111 Main Street
Greenport, NY 11944
631-477-0627