Butchering in South Williamsburg

February 4, 2009 1:55 pm

The names of Fergus Henderson and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall are rather synonymous with culinary expertise. Their philosophy, and in turn, recent participation, has bestowed a sense of heightened awareness among chefs and the cooking community. In essence, both endorse a return to the celebration of the animal in its entirety: from slaughtering, to preparation, to its tabletop presentation.

Historically, the use of the entire animal in cooking was one of sustenance rather than desire. Our rich agrarian past coupled with the provincial landscape less than 150 years ago dictated our menus. We relied heavily on seasonality, preservation and the pragmatic utility of all ingredients.

Our current culinary zeitgeist -- our recipes, our techniques -- are tied to this tradition. And, the integral foundation of this movement relies heavily on community and relationships and, hence, a sense of understanding between the farmer, merchant and cook. This conscious attitude challenges our nation's willingness to complicate food and steers our attention toward locality and sustainability

South Williamsburg contains a high concentration of merchants catering to those adhering, at least in part, to this mindset. And, most recently, the proprietors behind Marlow and Sons, Diner and Bonita opened a butcher shop aptly named Marlow and Daughters, at 95 Broadway, a mere stone's throw away from a few of their other ventures.

With clean lines and a charming aura, the interior of Marlow and Daughters is both rustic and modern. The butcher counter stretches from front to back along the west wall, divided between charcuterie and cheeses near the front and meat, both cured and freshly butchered toward the rear. A small window into the walk-in storage refrigerator offers a glimpse of what takes place behind the scenes. A tidy display of produce, sauces and marinades, frozen goods and local dairy items line the eastern side of the store. The vibe is inviting and cozy. Blonde wood, muted butcher paper, white background elements and polished aluminum edges provide the perfect background for the deeper hues of the meat displayed in the case.

Of course, the centerpiece here is the meat itself. Marlow and Daughters receives whole steers and pigs weekly and is also the on-site butcher for both Bonita locations, Diner and Marlow and Sons. The emphasis here is on locality, the utilization of the entire animal and the importance of the relationship between farm and merchant. Traditional cuts, in-house cured meats, dry-aged beef, hand-made sausage (from breakfast to scrapple) and offal are all on display. And, since entire animals are being broken down on-site, stocked items vary from day to day.

In-house cured lamb pancetta, pastrami style tongue, brisket and short ribs, beef hearts and kidneys and a variety of swine ranging from bone-in fresh ham, bone-in pork shoulder to pork belly, jowl and salted pork are showcased, quite an array of products. A selection of poultry, rabbit, veal and cured meats, both imported and domestic are also available. Stocked items diverge from the traditional to the more esoteric. Thus, patrons can choose to challenge themselves in the kitchen or take the more conservative approach.

The importance of establishments like Marlow and Daughters is twofold: they provide high quality, local, fresh products, and hopefully instill an attitude or sensibility of respect and honor to the animal, if not all things agricultural. It's a lot to ask from a butcher shop, but small gestures, sometimes taken for granted, go a long way.

-Chris Forbes

Marlow and Daughters is located at 95 Broadway Williamsburg, Brooklyn 11211. Call (718) 388-5700 for more details about the location.