Boston's Toscano Restaurant, Where everybody knows your name

February 23, 2009 10:33 am

Boston's Toscano Restaurant, Where everybody knows your name

$Behind the Burner: Boston\'s Toscano Restaurant, Where everybody knows your name$

Beacon Hill is the cozy historic part of downtown Boston, known for its gas lanterns, preppy residences and old Boston charm. The main street running through town to the Boston Common is Charles Street, and if you happen to be out for a stroll, then I recommend you try Toscano Restaurant. I have to honest; I eat there all the time, so I am biased in my judgment.

This is my favorite haunt in Boston. The entire staff from the valet parking attendants outside, to the welcoming committee at the hosts' stand, to the servers and bartenders, everyone is incredibly friendly, welcoming and authentic. Just like the food.

When you walk in the door the two managing partners Richard or Andrew are always there to greet you with a smile. If they don't know your name, they will learn it by the end of the night. This Italian gem has been recreated recently despite being a Boston staple for the past 25 years. Under new management and ownership Toscano Restaurant is one of my favorites in town. The food is traditional Tuscan to the T.

I like to sit at the bar and eat dinner most times. Other neighborhood regulars abound, the TV above the bar is always showcasing the Celtics, the Bruins, the Red Sox or the Patriots (it is exhausting being from Boston with all our sports teams to support) and you get to watch all the dishes coming out of the kitchen as they are delivered. Of course if you sit in the beautiful main dinning room you can watch the food being prepared in the giant open kitchen, but I still prefer the casual atmosphere of the bar.

The menu is vast, covering many Italian culinary classics. I am a creature of habit when it comes to Toscano, so I have a few favorites I always stick to. Currently, I am obsessed with the Pappa al Pomodoro which is a wonderfully thick tomato bread soup. It is sprinkled with fresh basil and an olive oil rich in flavor. The tart tomato taste is exceptional. It can, however, be quite heavy. When I am not feeling too hungry I either spilt the soup with a friend or go for the Carpaccio de Manzo instead. The Carpaccio is a lite-tasting aged beef and comes with crisp arugula, sharp parmigiano and if you are feeling indulgent, you can add truffle oil. It also comes with giant capers but I have to admit I push these to the side because they are too strong tasting for me. I like to soak up the truffle oil (yep, I choose indulgence) without the strong taste of capers getting in the way.

Anyway, back to my tomato bread soup! It is a great dish on a stormy winter night. And it leads into my favorite entré e perfectly every time. Like I said, I am a creature of habit in Toscano. I always get the same thing for my entré e. I skip past the fresh pizzas, pastas, risotto, traditional wood-grilled specials and fish options and go for the Vitella Milanese. Toscano does everything well, but I have sampled chicken, veal, beef and eggplants prepared around the world in a Milanese style, and Toscano does it the best.

Vitella Milanese is a sauté ed breaded veal scaloppini. It is simple and consistent every time. The meat is hammered out to a ripe tenderness and the breading is not too thick or chunky I always get extra lemons to give the classic taste of Tuscan seasoning a little kick. It is served with a simple side salad and fresh cut tomatoes. I usually eat these as soon as the dish arrives to get them out of the way. Coupled with a light white wine, this makes for a very nice dinner.

Desert, depending on whether or not I split the soup to begin with, is always from the cheese cart. They have a wonderful four cheese tasting of sheep, cow and goat's milk. The Taleggio is my favorite. And again, you can add some sinful truffle honey for a little extra. After writing this, I am ready to go back again.

Despite being a neighborhood haunt, people come from all over to enjoy the food, so if you are more than two people I would recommend making a reservation. They also have a downstairs grotto for private parties but I've never tried it. The price range for an entré e is between $20-$35 but two appetizers at approximately $10 each will fill you up if you are watching your purse. Check it out if you are in the neighborhood.

47 Charles Street
Boston, MA 02114
617.723.4090
http://www.toscanoboston.com/

Nancy W. Gleason