November 18, 2009 7:05 pm

A Tale of Wine and Oysters

November 7, half a dozen New Yorkers rose very early, hopped in a car, and headed down to Afton, Virginia. The target? The sixth annual Oyster Festival at Cardinal Point Vineyard and Winery: a holy trinity of wine, oysters and unbeatable fall surroundings.

Beautifully set in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Cardinal Point is a 15-acre vineyard, owned and operated by the Gorman family. It boasts a variety of wines, including some fantastic signature blends. Our drink of choice for the day was Cardinal Point's 2008 A6—a blend of Viognier and Chardonnay, marked by rich fruit and a bright finish. Sipped under a cloudless sky and fall's changing leaves, it was the perfect accompaniment to an oyster extravaganza.

While local bluegrass bands rocked in the background, attendees danced and drank and dove into raw, steamed and fried Barcat Oysters—large, super-satisfying oysters with a full-bodied taste and crisp finish—all from the Chesapeake Bay region and courtesy of Rappahannock River Oysters.

With a history dating back to 1899, today, Rappahannock River Oysters is run by cousins Travis and Ryan Croxton—the great grandsons of founder James Arthur Croxton, Jr. A few years ago, when the youngest generation told their grandfather they wanted to reopen the family business, he answered, "When the Chesapeake Bay oyster business was good, it was great, but when it was bad, it was devastating. Find another venture boys."

Instead, the two dedicated themselves to celebrating the best of the Chesapeake Bay's offerings—Rappahannocks, Stingrays, Snow Hills and Olde Salts—and putting Virginia oysters back on the map, with methods of oyster farming that overcome much of the damages made to the area in the 1980s and '90s from pollution and over-farming of wild oysters. In the process, they've even earned a Food & Wine Magazine "Tastemaker's Award," an honor given each year to top young talents who've changed the world of food and wine by age 35.

About five minutes into the Oyster Fest, I was feeling incredibly spoiled. About three hours in, all stress had melted away and perfection was near. And in the final moments—looking around at the vineyard, enjoying the last sip, that final shuck and the sun setting behind the mountains—I knew this had become my new favorite annual trip.

Next year I suggest you do the same.

Cardinal Point Vineyard and Winery
9423 Batesville Road
Afton, Virginia 22920
540.456.8400
www.cardinalpointwinery.com

**To learn more about Rappahannock River Oysters, visit their website, or check out Ryan and Travis on the Emmy-nominated, James Beard Award-winning PBS series Chef's Afield, episode "Olde Salts. Young Guns."

— Written by Anna Carnick

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