November 2, 2009 11:10 pm
A Hearty Meal Worth the Trek to Brooklyn
Stepping inside Vinegar Hill House is like stepping back in time to an old-fashioned Americana farmhouse. You are encompassed by the aroma and warmth of fresh food coming from the open kitchen's wood burning oven. The antique furniture and artwork would make any Antiques Road Show viewer stop in their tracks, especially the large organ keys above the bar. The setting is comforting and distinctive, just like the food.
I was the first to arrive so I grabbed a seat at the bar and ordered a cocktail and the chicken liver mousse from the surly but talented bartender. The drink was the perfect fall cocktail, crisp yet warming and slightly sweet. So good in fact, that I was contemplating ordering a second one before dinner (never a wise choice for a lightweight). I was happily distracted by the arrival of my chicken liver mousse. I love liver. I grew up on chopped liver and it is something that has morphed into one of my favorite comfort foods. This chicken liver mousse went right to the top of my comfort food list.
The mousse was topped with crushed pistachios and served with a side of vinegar onions and thick cuts of grilled bread drizzled with olive oil. I sampled the mousse and was delighted to discover that it was light, creamy and flavorful, but not too gamey. A generous layer spread on a think slice of the bread was an excellent combination. However, with the addition of the vinegar onions, this dish became downright delectable. The vinegar onions added a slight sweetness as they dissolved into the liver mousse and created a melt-in-your-mouth quality that I rarely find. I would make the trek back to Vinegar Hill House just for this dish.
When my friends arrived we were seated within minutes were promptly greeted by our waiter. With the urgency from my friends, I ordered the Cast Iron Chicken. Vinegar Hill House is well known for this dish. One bite and it was evident why this is a restaurant favorite. The chicken was tender and flavorful with a light, tangy sauce that was slightly sweet but not overpowering. I sampled the pasta dishes that my friends ordered and both dishes were fresh and wholesome but the small portions and bland tastes reaffirmed my general rule—save the pasta for your favorite Italian restaurants.
Leaving the restaurant and walking into the crisp night, I had the content feeling that comes with a warm buzz and a hearty meal. After one meal here, you will know why so many people make the journey to this industrial Brooklyn neighborhood to experience the comforts of Vinegar Hill House.
— Written by Jaci Badzin
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