February 9, 2009 6:39 pm

A Cozy Boston Dinner Spot as Valentine's Day Approaches

Boston's South End, with its mid-nineteenth century brick bow-fronts and charming neighborhood appeal, is bustling with new eateries. The South End seems to be Good Will Hunting meets The Bird Cage, so you can just imagine the rebirth on the culinary front.

My pre-arranged ladies night culminated at dinner on the South End. With reservations well in advance, we landed at The South End Buttery. A warm modern coffee house turned chic restaurant. They rave about their environmentally sustainable approach to cooking, a love for coffee and new style American fare. For a Saturday night out the price is right, with all the entrées under $20. The restaurant's main level has take-out items like cupcakes and Equator Estate Coffees-- even a funky little bar in the back. We proceeded downstairs to our table, where I was pleasantly surprised by the grotto-like architecture and bold, modern fireplace. The two small dining rooms were packed and brimming with laughter. Clearly this place had charmed the locals. And when I sat down in a giant leather booth, I felt very at home. I was ready to eat so I skipped over the creative drinks menu and went right for the good stuff, Duval-Leroy Brut (Champagne, France).

We dove in with Moules Frites which were steamed with garlic, tomatoes, lemon, saffron and white wine. The sauce was fresh with chunky tomatoes that added a nice texture. The accompanying French fries with truffle aioli were simply sinful. I knew I was throwing my waist line to the wind when I asked for a second order of the fries. They were that decadent.

My small-waisted friends ordered the arugula and mixed greens salad. It was dripping in green apples, walnuts, golden raisins and an excellent parmigiano. I had a forkful and the dressing blew me away. They used a cider-based vinaigrette that was to die for.

The entrée menu was very much in line with the culinary trend of creating menus that are simple and classic. They nailed it. From the braised beef short ribs with parsnip purée to the pan roasted Salmon with Israeli couscous, the dishes were recognizable yet had an innovative twist and flair. So, what do I order? It's a cold, misty winter night and I am out with the ladies. I decided to stick with the aforementioned trend of keeping it classic and simple. I went with the Buttery Burger with cheddar, bacon, lettuce, tomato and onion. And it came with fries! The bun was perfect, the red onions hit the spot, and the spicy ketchup packed an extra punch.

The crowd and ambience were as interesting as they were charming. Yet, we were challenged with the service. After our first bottle of wine, we did not see a server again for half an hour. And the wait between courses was not acceptable. However, they brought every table in the restaurant free cupcakes and cookies -- the specialty in the upstairs bakery - to compensate for being short staffed. I really appreciate a gesture like that. The restaurant business is hectic and when a server doesn't show or the kitchen gets out of sync it is important to communicate with the customers. The general manager was very pleasant and apologized for any delays. Apology accepted.

And besides, any restaurant in which I love the fries as much of the salad is worth becoming a regular!

The South End Buttery is located at 314 Shawmut Avenue, Boston, MA 02118. Call (617) 482-1015 for more information.


Nancy W. Gleason

— Written by Nancy W. Gleason

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