Before my evening of Sake 101 at Sushi Samba near Gramercy Park, my understanding of sake was tragically basic. It goes well with sushi. You can drink it hot or cold. When in the company of college-age males, drinking it in "bomb" form (and shouting boisterously before and after) is mandatory. But under the patient and humbling instruction of Sake Sommelier Yuno Hayashi, I realized how limited my previous knowledge of this Eastern liquor was.
Nestled in a cozy side room separated by sliding doors from the lively, low-ceilinged lounge area of Sushi Samba Park, I enjoyed an elegant seven-course meal prepared by Argentine Chef Fernando Navas paired with seven Japanese sakes. Yuno's tour of the world of sake was as comprehensive as it was enlightening, highlighting sake's versatility. The first sake, Dewazakura dewasansan, had a fruity nose reminiscent of a Pinot Grigio and provided a light and refreshing experience that was well matched with the Heirloom Tomato Sunomono (salad). The bold but sweet fifth sake, a Dassai Junmai Daiginjo, offered a peppery bite that balanced the savory perfection of the accompanying A5 Kobe beef that I "stone-grilled" right at the table.
Perhaps the most interesting sake fact that I took away from the evening was that "polishing" rice is one of the most important, if not the most important aspect of sake craftsmanship. Sake, as we know, is made from rice. Before the fermentation process begins, sake rice is polished, tumbled or milled, to remove the protein and oils from the outer layers of each grain and expose the starchy center. The level of polishing (seimaibuai) is measured as a percentage of how much of the rice's mass is worn away. The seimaibuai not only has the single biggest impact on the sake's flavor and body, but also categorizes sake into grades—junmai, junmai ginjo and junmai daiginjo.
The second sake a Dassai Junmai Daiginjo, was the unrivaled highlight of the evening. Junmai Daiginjo refers to sake made from the most refined rice, milled down at least 50%. Dassai Junmai Daiginjo is made from rice that has been 80% polished away, leaving only the pure and smooth starch at each grain's center for brewing. This selection, dubbed the "secret sake" because it came from a very small batch and bore no label, carried a rich creaminess that permeated my mouth and complemented the smooth and delicate diver scallop ceviche.
In contrast, the fourth sake with a seimaibuai of just a 20%, had a stronger alcohol flavor and aroma the seemed most similar to the house sakes I'd previously sampled in Japanese restaurants and sushi bars. Because so much of the original rice remained during the brewing, its presence in the final product was more palpable—an earthy, starchy nose and a dry, almost dusty texture. This more crude sake was combined with the similar but distinct taste of the sake-steamed rockfish, making for a delicious and multilayered sake experience.
The most surprising and most successful pairing of the evening was the third course—yellowtail tiradito (a Peruvian raw seafood dish similar to ceviche) with jalapeño and a spicy red sauce matched with a rare, unsweetened plum sake of a unique pink-amber color. The hint of sweetness provided by the plum juice (which, Yuno explained, is added at the very end of the brewing process so as not to interfere with fermentation) deftly cut through the heat of the sauce and jalapeño, leaving a rich and delightful but not overpowering finish. Yuno confessed that the spicy nature of the yellowtail dish was the most difficult to pair with, as the tiradito is a decidedly Peruvian, and therefore absent in Japanese cuisine. However, in a triumph that could be taken as a glowing affirmation of Sushi Samba's Japanese-Latin American theme, Yuno's choice was just right. As an individual who generally avoids fruity libations of almost any kind, I was pleasantly surprised that I enjoyed the pairing so much—though I must admit drinking the plum sake without the spicy tiradito did not sound all that appealing.
With the evening drawing to a close, I found my belly full of top-notch cuisine and the seven best sakes I had ever tasted, and my mind full of valuable sake knowledge. While I bid a grateful farewell to Yuno, I vowed to spread my newfound sake wisdom to anyone who cared to take it on. I could use it to spread understanding of and respect for this complex libation across our great nation, and maybe even stop a few sake bombs in the process.
To get your own dose of sake education, try Sushi Samba's monthly Sushi + Sake 101 class at its 7th Avenue location. For details call 212.691.7885.
Samba Sushi Park
245 Park Avenue South, near East 20th Street
New York, NY 10003
212.691.7885
The onset of Fall demands buttoned up evenings fraught with fine champagne a gorgeous filet mignon. When we say "Park Avenue Autumn" we can only express an iota of the glamour, power and opulence. Perfect for the debonair dinner guests. Mine were from England, an ideal equation to impress.
Park Avenue Autumn is the creation of a team from Quality Meats under instruction of restaurateur Michael Stillman. The Fall inspired dishes just enhance contemporary classics. Here the seasons harvest is braised and roasted and presented in new and decadent forms. The halls are redolent with scents of roasted fingerling yams, venison, butternut squash spaghetti and fig carpaccio.
For you fashionista's, I liken it to a scene from under the tents in Bryant Park during Fashion Week. Not only is each bite punched with flavor and zest but the wardrobe and jewelry in your surroundings is nothing less the couture. You can relish the special seafood dishes and still sport the Herve Leger as there is no way the Hamachi will add any girth.
This seasonal restaurant changes both menu and dining room decor every three months, and with Fall officially here, Park Avenue Autumn has been transformed into a bronze and amber palace. Fresh flowers and enormous brass pendant lighting. Lots of nautical details. It will be re-renovated in November for Park Avenue Winter so plan your special evening now. It's one of the most surreal sights in NYC. The most surreal bite is their chocolate cube dessert.
Park Avenue Autumn
100 East 63rd Street
New York, NY 10065
212.644.1900
Chinese food, what would life be like without it? Ugh, fearful shivers run up and down my spine just thinking the horrid thought. Anyone who knows me knows that I can plow my way through at least several loaded white take out boxes.
Now, some might say that my love for all things sweet/sour, and stir-fried makes me too lenient of a judge on the genre. To them I say, "Poo!" Sure, I've downed cheap Asian eats out of styrofoam flop tops, but I've also perused plenty of leather bound menus by candlelight. If anything, my undying love for Mandarin and Szechwan has kept me out there, actively pounding pavement for the perfect place.
Just over a year ago I drove past a cream colored building with bright red letters proclaiming: The GREAT WALL Restaurant. On a whim and because I needed a pick me up, I pulled a hard right into their tiny parking lot in quiet Lafayette, CA. Let me tell you, that maneuver has become a regular part of my routine.
They make a lot of good food here, but several items rank on the Next Level of Yum. The Honey Walnut Prawns are divine. They do not skimp on the batter, so it puffs up extra thick, golden brown and crunchy all around the already sizable prawns. They pour just the right amount of sweet sauce over the dish, so that the entrée is adorned not drenched in a light and playful dressing. Add to this picture walnut halves that have been roasted and candied in a glaze that makes them a treat all on their own and you have one of the closest things to perfection that I have ever known.
The Great Wall Beef is also a delectable offering. Large cuts of beef fried in a tangy sauce always arrived at the table piping hot. It is a simple plate, the magic's in the sauce. Citrus flavors intermingle with savory spices and the whole thing is tied together by a subtle sweetness. One bite leads right to another with this one, and I'm still not sure what's more fun pinpointing all the flavors or the actual eating.
The third item that stands out as more than memorable is their house-fried rice. Sure, this isn't an item one has to go hunting for. On the contrary it's one of dishes that we all believe we know inside and out. Maybe that's why I was so pleasantly surprised by their perfection of an old time favorite. Their rice is fluffy! Made flavorful by the ingredients used in it, not by a cook with an overly heavy hand for spice. There's also a lovely balance in their version. You don't get just one shrimp, or rice, scrambled eggs and the few odd peas. Made by Great Wall chefs, fried rice arrives at your table the classic comfort food it was always meant to be.
There is a downside for Bay Area diners who are considering a visit to "The Wall". The place suffers from a less than impressive design scheme. A black faux rock wall separates a quarter of the room. The wall looks sad and out of place. It was obviously separated from the rest of its family, The Pirates of the Caribbean ride. The light colored wood banisters and bar fit oddly together with the peach colored walls. A forest green carpet with irritating swirls and flowers helps keep your gaze from lingering down low. Oh, and the chandeliers and lighting fixtures look like they came out of a 70's garage sale. The bottom line: If you can tolerate a curious dining room do it. If you can't, I implore you to visit anyway. Just tell them the food is to go.
The Great Wall Restaurant
3500 Golden Gate Way
Lafayette, CA 94549-4410
925.284.3500
If you're craving a hearty Thai meal amidst the recent UN commotion, Behind the Burner recommends Real Thai. Take refuge from the drone of those sirens and shuffle in for an amazing authentic feast that will have you hooked!
Behind the Burner's tip—take advantage of the affordable $6.50 lunch menu. Lunch comes with a salad and...it's speedy! While the staff is a tad abrupt, the modern and airy dècor and tasty fare make up for the service.
If you fancy dumplings, try the triangular Thai leek dumplings—savory like a scallion pancake but moist and spongy like cake. The flavors are earthy, nutty and outrageously delicious. The papaya salad lacked the color element, but the dressing was perfect—a perfect proportion of ground peanuts and whole ones for crunch. For those who prefer a cleaner bite, the basil summer rolls with shrimp are light, fresh and delicately seasoned.
Big applause for the green curry. Isn't Thai really all about the curries? Brown rice or white, you'll be ga-ga over this dish. The veggies are crisp. The curry, aromatic and creamy. Tofu or chicken, you'll demand a re-order.
This is your best bet for home-style Thai on the way to the movies or for a quick lunch with the kids. Real Thai could become a weekend family tradition.
Real Thai
1069 First Avenue
New York, NY 10022
212.752.927
Okay, true story. My man and I had a brief but serious talk about leaving Brooklyn for more space and a patch of grass upstate. When we decided against it, there were many reasons, but a big one was Grab. For those of you who haven't had the pleasure, Grab is a specialty food store here in Park Slope, the delights of which are many. So many, in fact, that when it came right down to it, we literally and actually said the words "What would we do without Grab?" Yes, this is how we make major life decisions in my house.
Started by owner Laura Nuter in 2007, Grab is a specialty food store that stocks craft beer, fine cheeses, charcuterie, bread, chocolate, olive oil, specialty salts, coffee, snacks, sweets, even gum and lollipops! Laura came from the world of sales and software, and then dropped it all to go to culinary school. When an opportunity came around to purchase Blue Apron's second store, she took it over and made it her own.
Though she's thinking of expanding to include more unique kitchenware, right now the ingestibles are the star. For around $15, you can get your 64 oz. Growler filled with the draft beer of your choice. The menu of beers changes frequently, but their current choices include Ithaca Cold Front, Penn Oktoberfest, Sixpoint Hop Love IPA and Sly Fox Palisade IPA, among others. Now, I may not be a beer drinker myself, but my husband has never been given a Growler filled with a beer he did not like.
Their meat and cheese case is like a wonderland of snacky goodness. Whether you're planning a picnic in the park, or you just want some food to nosh on while you make dinner (because if you're anything like us, you want to eat before you eat), you will not be disappointed. One of my favorite combinations is some duck rillettes,(which is duck cooked in its own fat and then made into a paste of duck meat and duck fat and oh my God it is so good), some pate, a few cornichons, and one or two of their formidable cheeses. I've paired with the Humboldt Fog, or more recently, with a soft sheep's milk cheese that was stinky as hell and just as delicious.
But besides the fact that I can go to one place and get a feast fit for a king, some beer and Gorilla coffee for the next morning, the staff is what makes this place special, and unable to live without. Laura herself is frequently on hand, filling Growlers and making suggestions. And if she's not, the whole staff is knowledgeable, friendly and has never, and I do mean never, steered me wrong. More than just a store, it's an experience. A Willy Wonka-land of meats and cheeses, (minus the creepy Oompa Loompas) complete with great conversation and new discoveries.
As Laura put it to me, "Come on by for a visit. We love to chat and we love our customers." In case I haven't been clear, I highly recommend.
Grab Specialty Foods
438 Seventh Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11215
718-369-7595
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