July 7, 2009 6:24 pm

CLINK, Boston: Lock Me Up Here Any Day

Behind the Burner: CLINK, Boston: Lock Me Up Here Any Day

There is something to be said for a consistent menu. It is not easy to pull together different dishes that compliment each other. I often see menus that try to do too much, drawing on influences from too many types cuisines. It can be fun, especially if you have a picky group, and the only way to please everyone is to find a restaurant that caters to all ages and cravings. But, you can identify a skilled chef by their ability to design a menu that is original and complimentary without being scattered. Joseph Margate, Executive Chef at CLINK in Boston's Liberty Hotel, has done just that.

I have eaten at CLINK several times before my most recent visit, and I must admit I had given up. But a new menu and Chef drew me back as the restaurant can boast an excellent jail cell décor and celebrity strewn atmosphere. I was surprised to have enjoyed one of the best meals I have ever had in Boston. Executive Chef Joseph Margate has pulled together a seasonal menu which incorporates local tastes, creative twists and familiar foods. I loved every bite. CLINK features American cuisine with a slight French influence. I started with the tomato soup. Wow. What a great way to begin the meal. A chilled yellow tomato soup with a drop of smoked yogurt in the middle is sprinkled with drops of fragrant olive oil. They use a cold smoker to prepare the yogurt so as to infuse it with a smoky flavor without heating it up. Creative and delicious.

My husband had the beef tartar, which had capers mashed in it, adding a nice flavor kick. I couldn't resist a third starter of steamed mussles in a lemon grass sauce. They were so fresh and the sauce was light with ginger and saffron seasoning the broth. Perfect for summer. For my main course I went with the chicken. Although the portion was overly generous, the seasoning and presentation were exceptional. The juicy meat medallions were laid over a mound of summer vegetables and barley mixed with cheese. Pine nuts added a rich flavor to this dish. And I love pine nuts! It was outstanding. My husband went with the Mackerel, which is served nearly raw and sprinkled with avocados and chorizo vinaigrette. Again, the tastes from the different dishes complimented each other exceptionally well.

All this great food and we were too full to try the deserts. I am definitely going back to try their artisanal cheeses soon. I am still savoring all the wonderful tastes I enjoyed at CLINK and I couldn't recommend it to you more. Enjoy!

—Nancy W. Gleason

Clink Restaurant
215 Charles Street
Boston MA 02114
617.224.4004

— Written by Nancy W. Gleason

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Rating:
63.0
48 votes
1 2 3 4 5

July 6, 2009 5:51 pm

Messina Hof Winery: Wrangling Winning Wines in the Lone Star State

Behind the Burner: Messina Hof Winery: Wrangling Winning Wines in the Lone Star State

For my husband's birthday, we took a one and a half hour drive out of Houston to check out Messina Hof Winery & Resort, a Texas vineyard established in 1977 located in Bryan, Texas. To be honest, I knew very little about Texan wines, but I thought it would be a fun and romantic adventure.

We arrived at Messina Hof around 4PM, just in time for a wine sampling. I felt like a crisp, summery white and first chose a Riesling while my husband opted for a silky Pinot Noir. We were very impressed with the quality of the wines. After sampling a few more wines and nibbling on chocolates infused with port (made on site Messina Hof), we toured the winery. We learned about the winery, the people behind it and the history of how the wine making establishment came to be. Founded by Paul and Merrill Bonarrigo in 1977, Messina Hof was named after their respective ancestral homelands. Paul's family is from Messina, Sicily and Merrill's family is from Hof, Germany. In Paul's family, young men at the age of 16 began to learn the 200-year-old family winemaking tradition. In Sicily, Paul Bonarrigo's ancestors are still making wine today. These oenology skills have been passed down through each generation.

We also learned that Texas plays a significant role in U.S. wine making—Texas is the fifth largest wine producing state. Messina Hof controls 25 percent of all grapevines planted in Texas and is the largest grape grower in the High Plains region, where they harvest grapes from 500 acres. Messina Hof produces and distributes 1.1 million bottles of wine annually. Not bad! In 1983, Messina Hof's first year of developing commercial wines, Paul and Merrill produced 1,300 gallons. The Papa Paulo Port, still one of the most popular wines, was the first wine made at Messina Hof. This year, Messina Hof will produce 265,000 gallons of wine and more than 18 varietals. Messina Hof is the second largest tourist attraction in Brazos County and brings in more than 250,000 visitors per year.

After the historical portion, we were taken on a tour of the property, got to explore the vineyard and see bunches of grapes that would be picked later in July for port wine. Of course, no vino tour would be complete without wine samples. I tried a Shiraz, an amazing sherry, a Muscat and sweet port. Do you see a trend? I have a sweet tooth when it comes to wine and I adore after dinner drinks! My husband on the other hand, leans towards dry and full-bodied, and thus opted for a Cabernet and different Pinot Noirs.

After much sampling, we felt a touch giddy and of course, visited the gift shop and bought a case (plus after dinner drinks) to ship home to New York. Before wrapping our winery date, we enjoyed a delicious four-course meal at The Vintage House Restaurant, nestled conveniently on the Messina Hof estate. Every dish delectably incorporates one of the vineyard's award-winning wines, and I definitely was tempted to try everything on the menu. To start, we shared an aged French Brie encrusted with almonds, then deep fried and served with Papa Paulo Port Melba sauce, red grapes and butter crackers. It was exquisite. I then had a light and refreshing Champagne Cranberry Salad (baby field greens tossed together with dried cranberries, candied Texas pecans, gorgonzola cheese and a sparkling Champagne vinaigrette), followed by a wonderful duck entr ée. My husband had a juicy steak (it is Texas after all). For dessert, we indulged in a decadent Bananas Foster, flamb éed tableside.

For those seeking the full vino escape, Messina Hof has a delightful . The estate features 10 charming, uniquely named and decorated guest rooms, each complete with original antiques that the winery's owners have collected over the years. We happily stayed in the Antoinette (like Marie) room. The Messina Hof wines and after dinner drinks recently arrived to our home in New York City—and I can't wait to crack open some of these bottles, invite friends over and pair them with tasty nibbles from Behind the Burner.

—Alexandra Wilkis Wilson

Messina Hof Winery & Resort
4545 Old Reliance Road
Bryan, Texas 77808
979.778.9463
800.736-9463 (toll free)

— Written by Alexandra Wilkis Wilson

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Rating:
61.0
46 votes
1 2 3 4 5

July 5, 2009 11:27 pm

Service with a Smirk: 10 Things I Hate That Waiters and Waitresses Do

Behind the Burner: Service with a Smirk: 10 Things I Hate That Waiters and Waitresses Do

With new restaurants opening constantly and my own personal thirst for variety, I rarely go back to the same places more than few times. There are two main reasons I revisit a dining establishment:

* Memorable Food

* Excellent Service

So, when I am served mediocre food, I sometimes consider it an off night or move on to the next place, but when I don't get good service, I leave with a bitter taste in my mouth and never return. Here are my top pet peeves with waiters and waitresses:

10. I'm sitting at my table, my menu is closed and I am desperately trying to get your attention, but you are IGNORING me as if I don't exist.

9. You serve me water in a glass that is the size of a child's sippy cup and don't come back to ever refill it.

8. I'm dining with a large group of friends, you're convinced you're going to remember it all instead of writing our orders down and there are several mistakes when the food finally arrives.

7. You serve everyone else but seemingly forget my order. Was it because I didn't smile at you enough?

6. I ask you a question about the wine list or menu and you pretend to know the answer but in reality you have no clue. Rather than fake it, please just go and find out.

5. You reach across the table to serve me instead of coming close to me to put my dishes down in front of me. I didn't venture out of my house to smell your armpits.

4. You start clearing up people's plates but others at my table haven't finished eating, I think it's just plain rude.

3. You ask me if I need change. The answer is "YES" always. I'll decide how big your tip is going to be after you give me my change. By the way, you just lost 2% tip for asking me if I need change.

2. You call me sweetie, darling or any other name that should be reserved for your loved ones. Whether I'm at a diner or a Michelin star restaurant, I don't need you to sweet talk me.

1. I know it's hard, but please do refrain from flirting with my date. It's rude and insulting. If he wanted to take you out, he'd be sitting across the table from you.

Johnny Depp recently left a waiter $4,000 tip: Hollywood class acts are just endangered, not extinct. If you want my 20% please avoid the pitfalls above, I will even give you a smile.

—Divya Gugnani

— Written by Divya Gugnani

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Rating:
63.0
64 votes
1 2 3 4 5

July 3, 2009 8:31 pm

Picnicking in New York City: Outdoor Fun Is Just A Sunny Day Away

Behind the Burner: Picnicking in New York City: Outdoor Fun Is Just A Sunny Day Away

Warm rays and sticky heat, splashing around in the Atlantic Ocean and enjoying a frosty ice cream cone are some things that just scream East Coast summer. One of the best, on-the-spur-of-the-moment warm weather city perks is picnicking in a nearby park. With a little help from your neighborhood shops and friends, you can enjoy a carefree day. So next time the rain breaks, take advantage of the sunny day and experience summer at its best. Two logistics to coordinate and you're all set:

Location, Location
Just think green grass, trees and ample sunshine. What about your nearest park? A location that's just a quick walk around the block, a short drive or even in your own backyard. Want to venture further? With locations such as Central Park, Bryant Park, Flushing Meadows, Prospect Park, heck even Fort Tryon Park, you have no excuse. Find a park that suits your mood — the city is filled with lush, green spots perfect for a blanket, some friends and dining al fresco.

Outdoor Eats
For a quick and healthy option, try grabbing some organic snacks from Whole Foods. A loaf of bread, some cheese, tomatoes in EVOO, cookies and crisp Italian-style lemonade, and you have lunch to go. Trader Joe's is a cheaper alternative, but be prepared for a little bit of preparation for their snacks and dishes. For something ready-to-eat, head to Pret a Manger, a tasty, organic ready-to-eatery, with a healthy spattering of shops throughout NYC and wide selection of sandwiches, snacks, desserts and drinks. What if you're already lying in the grass and hunger strikes? No worries. The Upper East Side good-for-you pizza joint Slice, Pinkberry and Nonna offer direct delivery and even picnic "meals."

—Johana Langi

Whole Foods, Union Square
4 Union Square West
New York, NY 10003
212.673.5388

Trader Joe's, Union Square
142 E. 14th St.
New York, NY 10003
212.529-4612

Trader Joe's, Brooklyn
130 Court Street
Brooklyn, NY 11201
718.246.8460

Trader Joe's, Queens
9030 Metropolitan Avenue
Flushing, NY 11374
718.275.1791

Slice
1413 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10021
212.249.4353

Nonna
520 Columbus Avenue
New York, NY 10024
212.579.3194

Photo credit: J Jodie, courtesy of Central Park

— Written by Johana Langi

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Rating:
59.0
64 votes
1 2 3 4 5

July 2, 2009 6:14 pm

Simple Made Delicious: Gus & Gabriel's Brings Home to New York City Dining

Behind the Burner: Simple Made Delicious: Gus & Gabriel\'s Brings Home to New York City Dining

Enter a world of burgundy painted walls surrounding dark leather stools, quirky items and antiques reflected by a multitude of mirrors. Above you are stained-glass light fixtures and in front of you lies a long hallway leading to a man named Harris--a steel soldier of armor greeting you upon arrival. Now, you notice 65 seats are awaiting an upbeat New York City crowd in dire need of some comfort food, and you are one of them. Where on earth have you stumbled into? Still not quite sure, you just know one thing—you must stay and see what this pub has to offer.

Early Yesterday, Chef Michael Psilakis opened Gus and Gabriel's an American pub that makes you feel right at home. Named after the two most influential men in his life, Gus, Psilakis' late father, and Gabriel, his three-year-old son, this local neighborhood establishment is already attracting those of all ages, keeping their stomachs and surprisingly, their wallets, full. The basic menu of soups, snacks, sandwiches, burgers and more is founded in quality, but low in quantity—not a single item on the menu costs more than $15.

Chef Psilakis is recognized for infusing Greek cuisine with modern NYC dining. While cooking at home for his son Gabriel, Psilakis thought to take comfort to a new level by preparing them in a professional kitchen. The hot dogs, corned beef and pastrami are all made in-house. For some juicy, flavor filled, crispy fried chicken, Psilakis brines the meat for two days in a mixture of 20 aromas and herbs. These crispy chicken pieces are served with gravy, biscuits, and of course, mashed potatoes.

But food isn't the only extensive category on the menu. Gus and Gabriel's feature a selection of 50 beers and 70 varieties of bourbon, scotch, rum and tequila, served by the glass, flask or bottle. What's pretty unique to this pub is that guests have the option to order an 8-oz. stainless steel flask filled with their drink of choice to share with the table.

After all these delicious descriptions, my mouth is watering and I'm guessing yours is too. Go relax for a little at this great new eatery where you can enjoy the comfort of food that feeds your soul. Besides, everyone deserves to go home for dinner, and now, even in hectic New York City, you can.

—Joanna Weinstein

Gus & Gabriel's
Michael Psilakis, Gastropub
222 W. 79th Street between Amsterdam and Columbus Avenue
New York, NY 10024
212.362.7470

— Written by Joanna Weinstein

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Rating:
56.0
42 votes
1 2 3 4 5

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