February 6, 2009 10:43 am
Last Monday I had the pleasure of attending a party thrown by Tales of the Cocktail and Saveur magazine. The event was held at Tailor in Soho, known for its sweet and savory menu items (think maple poached snails) and inventive cocktails such as the Bazooka, which involves bubble gum flavored cordial, vodka and house made sour mix.
The Punch Party celebrated the partnership of Saveur Magazine and Tales of the Cocktail. Tales of the Cocktail is an annual gathering in New Orleans of cocktail professionals and aficionados. Also being celebrated was the appointment of David Wondrich as the new wine and spirits editor of Saveur. Wondrich is a familiar face in the cocktail world having recently recently won a James Beard award for his book Imbibe!
Bartender Eben Freeman's signature molecular mixology influenced cocktails were not on the menu this evening. Instead two punches where being served whose recipes date well before the turn of the century. The first, Regent's Punch named after George VI was a refreshing blend of VSOP Cognac, rum, green tea, Seville orange, pineapple syrup, arrack a liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm and Champagne. The second punch was inspired by a poem about the British Army Captain Alexander Radcliffe. VSOP Cognac is mixed with Sauternes and finished with nutmeg and fresh lemon for this (too) easy drinking tipple. Chef Sam Mason's kitchen turned out comfort/junk food inspired hors d'oeuvres including curried popcorn, fried hummus, Buffalo chicken wings, cheesecake bites topped with pineapple foam and churros.
A glamorous gala attended by cocktail industry professionals and journalists throughout this country and Europe, this, to say the least, was one punchy party.
Caroline Russock
— Written by Caroline Russock
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February 5, 2009 4:52 pm
My earliest memories of hamburgers are from consuming them at fast food joints. Yes, I was one of those children who had her birthday at Burger King. When I was 8 years old, my parents used to stop at White Castle to pick up hamburgers for my sister and me before they would eat a spicy thai meal at Jaiya in Elmhurst Queens. Hamburgers have come a long way since my White Castle days.
They were a staple in my college days. I ate a cheese burger with cheese fries at Trillium at Cornell. It must have been that cold weather and all that walking across campus that allowed me to burn off those calories. After moving to NYC I discovered prime burger for a daily lunchtime burger fix, Corner Bistro on the weekends and burgers in Harvard Square with sweet potato fries to warm me up in Boston at grad school.
When I barbeque, my hamburgers are a lynchpin of my spread. I start with the best quality ground meat. Spending money on expensive meat and lean cuts for grinding your burger won't make a great burger. A great burger starts with a bit of fat so the bold flavors can come through. Ground chuck, round or sirloin are my favorites. I often work up a combination of them. Here are best tips for building beautiful burgers:
* Size matters: Perfect patties should be about 6 ounces. Don't make mighty mounds, they'll just end up looking sad and puck like. Thinner-but-densely packed patties will retain more moisture and cook more evenly.
* Simple spices: Maximize natural, juicy meat flavors by just salt and peppering before grilling. For extra kick, you can dabble with Worcestershire sauce. And don't forget good, gourmet mustard on your bun!
* Flip once, then walk away: Don't keep flipping before your burger is cooked through--every time you mess with the patty, you lose precious flavorful juices. Four minutes a side should do it. Resist the urge to press down with the spatula. Again, you'll lose the juices. To keep your hands busy, drink wine instead.
* Think outside the bun: Skip traditional, packaged store buns and try kaiser rolls, sourdough baguette and brioche.
* Say cheese: Adding a little sharp cheddar or smoky gouda will make your burger extra delicious. Don't be afraid to experiment!
I thought that I'd experienced the crem de la crem of hamburgers, between the burger at DB Bistro and my own creations—until Franklin Becker made his Juicy Lucy for me. He showed me how to incorporate cheese in the MIDDLE of the burger which rendered the juiciest burger EVER. Just when I thought I knew all the culinary magic involving hamburgers, he showed me one more trick. — Divya Gugnani
Corner Bistro
331 W 4th St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 242-9502
DB Bistro Moderne
55 W 44th St
New York, NY 10036-6609
(212) 391-2400
— Written by Divya Gugnani
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