I never thought their paths would cross, but when they did, it was love at first bite.
Weddings often bore me, but the marriage of honey and cheese nearly made me weep like fresh mozzarella. When I arrived at Artisanal for the big event, masters of ceremony Erin Hedley and Marina Marchese guided our group to the adjacent classroom, where the celebratory goodies awaited us: wine, platefuls of cheese slabs too irresistible to snub, and of course, mini metal cups of honey.
A teacher's pet through high school and college, I in sat the front row. I thought I'd give the cheese-honey combo the Simon Cowell scowl. I couldn't; each bite of cheese, honey and wine hit all the right notes.
Within 90 minutes, Hedley transformed me into a cheese whiz, while Marchese's honey lecture added a touch of sweetness to the evening. I certainly pocketed some valuable pointers; I can't wait to share them with you.
Did you know the first cheese was molded out of baked earth nearly 2800 years ago? This precious protein source, once considered a commodity, was forgotten in the dark ages. Thankfully, Romans later re-discovered local cheeses such as Cheshire in England, blues of Frances Massif Central and mountain cheeses from the Alps.
I was lucky enough to sample some of the finest cheeses from Artisanal, arranged on my plate in a lovely wheel. Here are my favorites:
Pecorino Balze Volteranne with Clover Honey—Raw organic pecorino from Tuscany made with vegetable rennet of wild artichoke, aged in oak barrels for 60 days, rind covered in oak and olive wood ash. With its unique green flavor and long finish, it has an affinity for red wines. A drizzle of sweet, flowery clover honey balances out the sharp, earthy bite of the pecorino.
Did you know? Pecorino has the most protein, minerals and fat, and is more expensive because sheeps' milk production level is lower.
Piave with Goldenrod Honey—This Italian cow's milk cheese is similar to Parmigiano Reggiano and has a slight butterscotch-caramel note. Erin Hedley prefers it with toasted bread and brown sugar—a wonderful breakfast cheese.
Doddington with Creamed Honey—Created at the Doddington Dairy in Northumberland England, this crumbly cheese has a hazelnut undertone and is a bit reminiscent of Gouda (which is actually pronounced, "howda" rather than "goo-duh"). Great with a merlot or zinfandel. The smooth, viscous creamed honey is both sweet and spicy—an ideal partner for the salty, dry Doddington.
Barely Buzzed with Buckwheat Honey—Probably the most brilliantly pungent and eye-opening cheese I sampled, this one is crafted by Tim Welsh and Pat ford at the Beehive Dairy in Utah. With a blend of espresso and lavender in the rind, it emits an uplifting, earthy mocha flavor. Talk about a wake-up call. It's also great with beer. Honey pair: dark, molasses-like buckwheat honey that carries a hint of plum and cherry.
Visit our Classes page and check out other courses from Artisanal.
*Stay tuned for the featured promotion and story behind Red Bee Honey™
Beacon Hill is the cozy historic part of downtown Boston, known for its gas lanterns, preppy residences and old Boston charm. The main street running through town to the Boston Common is Charles Street, and if you happen to be out for a stroll, then I recommend you try Toscano Restaurant. I have to honest; I eat there all the time, so I am biased in my judgment.
This is my favorite haunt in Boston. The entire staff from the valet parking attendants outside, to the welcoming committee at the hosts' stand, to the servers and bartenders, everyone is incredibly friendly, welcoming and authentic. Just like the food.
When you walk in the door the two managing partners Richard or Andrew are always there to greet you with a smile. If they don't know your name, they will learn it by the end of the night. This Italian gem has been recreated recently despite being a Boston staple for the past 25 years. Under new management and ownership Toscano Restaurant is one of my favorites in town. The food is traditional Tuscan to the T.
I like to sit at the bar and eat dinner most times. Other neighborhood regulars abound, the TV above the bar is always showcasing the Celtics, the Bruins, the Red Sox or the Patriots (it is exhausting being from Boston with all our sports teams to support) and you get to watch all the dishes coming out of the kitchen as they are delivered. Of course if you sit in the beautiful main dinning room you can watch the food being prepared in the giant open kitchen, but I still prefer the casual atmosphere of the bar.
The menu is vast, covering many Italian culinary classics. I am a creature of habit when it comes to Toscano, so I have a few favorites I always stick to. Currently, I am obsessed with the Pappa al Pomodoro which is a wonderfully thick tomato bread soup. It is sprinkled with fresh basil and an olive oil rich in flavor. The tart tomato taste is exceptional. It can, however, be quite heavy. When I am not feeling too hungry I either spilt the soup with a friend or go for the Carpaccio de Manzo instead. The Carpaccio is a lite-tasting aged beef and comes with crisp arugula, sharp parmigiano and if you are feeling indulgent, you can add truffle oil. It also comes with giant capers but I have to admit I push these to the side because they are too strong tasting for me. I like to soak up the truffle oil (yep, I choose indulgence) without the strong taste of capers getting in the way.
Anyway, back to my tomato bread soup! It is a great dish on a stormy winter night. And it leads into my favorite entré e perfectly every time. Like I said, I am a creature of habit in Toscano. I always get the same thing for my entré e. I skip past the fresh pizzas, pastas, risotto, traditional wood-grilled specials and fish options and go for the Vitella Milanese. Toscano does everything well, but I have sampled chicken, veal, beef and eggplants prepared around the world in a Milanese style, and Toscano does it the best.
Vitella Milanese is a sauté ed breaded veal scaloppini. It is simple and consistent every time. The meat is hammered out to a ripe tenderness and the breading is not too thick or chunky I always get extra lemons to give the classic taste of Tuscan seasoning a little kick. It is served with a simple side salad and fresh cut tomatoes. I usually eat these as soon as the dish arrives to get them out of the way. Coupled with a light white wine, this makes for a very nice dinner.
Desert, depending on whether or not I split the soup to begin with, is always from the cheese cart. They have a wonderful four cheese tasting of sheep, cow and goat's milk. The Taleggio is my favorite. And again, you can add some sinful truffle honey for a little extra. After writing this, I am ready to go back again.
Despite being a neighborhood haunt, people come from all over to enjoy the food, so if you are more than two people I would recommend making a reservation. They also have a downstairs grotto for private parties but I've never tried it. The price range for an entré e is between $20-$35 but two appetizers at approximately $10 each will fill you up if you are watching your purse. Check it out if you are in the neighborhood.
47 Charles Street
Boston, MA 02114
617.723.4090
http://www.toscanoboston.com/
In this difficult economic climate, it goes without saying that the restaurant industry is taking a hit in a big way. Amidst waning patronage and a sea of endless dining options in New York City, restaurants have taken proactive and shrewd measures to draw in diners. Some have pushed menu items that are more wallet-friendly, like burgers and bar food, while others have instituted prix-fixe menus served daily. Other dining spots have elected to offer half price bottles of wine on certain nights. It all feels like a perpetual happy hour that extends to every strata of the dining world.
For those who are still gainfully employed and have maintained the frequency at which they dine out, these recession specials are an unexpected boon. Diners can take satisfaction in restaurants being more wallet-friendly than ever, with the additional bonuses of supporting local business owners and bolstering a stagnant economy.
I've also done my share by partaking in various restaurant specials around town. However, instead of feeling achieved for having taken advantage of these deals, I always left my meals plagued with feelings of longing and envy. When I ordered a prix-fixe item or menu special, it made me envious of those dining off the regular menu and only served as a reminder that I would not be enjoying the pricier a la carte items. Crazy as it may sound, these restaurant specials often had the opposite of their intended effect, and made me feel worse, not better, about dining out during a recession.
I then learned about a new special that the Lower East Side restaurant Allen and Delancey is currently promoting, called "Happy Nights." Every Tuesday, for the entire night, all cocktails at the bar are 50%. I was thrilled to take advantage of this special offer last Tuesday for a number of reasons. The first reason was the price. Cocktail dens and speakeasies are now a dime a dozen in this city, and many restaurants also incorporate strong cocktail offerings as part of their drink list, but each expertly crafted libation will run you an average cost of $12-15. The cocktails at Allen and Delancey are $13 each, so every cocktail you order on a Tuesday is a mere $6.50. Secondly, Allen and Delancey is a highly regarded, Michelin-starred restaurant with an equally matched cocktail menu. The drinks are divided into five thematic categories, then further separated into two subcategories, 1 and 2. Drinks in the 1 category are lighter and more refreshing, while Category 2 drinks are deeper and more nuanced. I sipped and savored the Tiner's Stand #2, L'Heure Verte #1 and William and Mary #2, which contained base spirits of amaro, rye and gin. All cocktails utilize the finest spirits and liqueurs and are thoughtful, complex and fully developed. They are also fairly potent. The best part about this special however, is that you don't suffer from any feelings of deprivation whilst partaking in the promotion. The entire cocktail menu is at your disposal and is the same drink menu you would order from on any other night and at any other time.
The decor at Allen and Delancey is stunning, with dim candle lit rooms and antiqued accents, further heightening the pleasure of enjoying a well crafted drink. The full dinner menu is also available at the bar should you want to nosh on appetizers or mains while you imbibe your drinks. You can enjoy these fine cocktails for half price at the front bar only, which seats approximately 15, so go earlier if possible. This was one recession special that left me feeling pretty great about the amazing deal I just got.
Drinkers beware that sushi and savoury at the bar are superb, but for those vegetarians the menu options are extremely limited, so have a nibble on our way out in that case...for the libations and ambiences are plenty to fulfill.
Allen and Delancey
115 Allen Street
New York, NY 10002
212-253-5400
Country can be both cozy and hip--and that's exactly what I discovered last Monday 2/9 at Marc Forgione's restaurant renaming opening party. Formerly known as FORGE, the Chef's nickname, this swanky, farmhouse-like New American eatery now goes by his full moniker. Why the change? His website cites the official name change in earlier this year to avoid a lawsuit. For most Marc Forgione fans I don't think it matters what the restaurant is called, as long as his heralded New American cuisine doesn't change.
A beautiful display featuring all hard-to-find Marcelli sheep milk's cheeses (direct from Abruzzo, Italy), including Pecorino di Anversa (Ricotta smoked with Juniper), Pecorino Scorza Nera (Ricotta with Italian chive), and Caciotta d'Abruzzo (Ricotta flavored with Peppercino). This, along with Gli Srani extra virgin olive oil, Miele di Melate tapenade, prosciutto, and crostini ensured that the table was regularly crowded with epicurious grazers--myself among them. Being a big turophile, I sampled the cheese more than once. If you are a fromage fan, the sheep's milk has more heart-healthy fats and extra vitamins and minerals compared to its cow milk counterparts. I'll eat to that!
Hand-passed appetizers (zesty oyster shooters!), a whole roasted suckling pig stuffed with cornbread, fennel and sausage, and vanilla bean panicotta custard with black current gelato rounded out the delicious eats.
Last, but definitely not least, where the amazing drinks! Tangerine Gin with Pomegranate, Kumquat Mojito and the house favorite Cucumber Number 4. Like a Pimm's Cup, but even better, this light refreshing drink was specifically concocted for Marc Forgione. Master mixologist George Duval from Open Bar Hospitality did very good. I'm looking forward to tasting that summer-perfection-in-glass when I most definitely return.
134 Reade Street, New York City 10013
Reservations: 212-941-9401
Hours: Monday-Saturday 5PM-11PM , Sunday 5PM-10PM
Mexican food is an essential part of my native Californian cuisine, but there aren't many options in Manhattan for West Coasters who crave authentic food from south of the border. Fortunately for taco connoisseurs, Chef Sue Torres serves top-notch Mexican cuisine at Sueños. Recently, she invited Behind the Burner to check out the tips, tricks and techniques that she uses to create her trademark "tacos al pastor." Sueños happens to be Spanish for "dreams". True to the restaurant's name, Torres' "Tacos al Pastor" lived up to my Mexican food fantasies.
While they now come in many varieties, "tacos al pastor" were originally developed in Mexico City by Lebanese immigrants who combined their shawarma with the locally consumed corn tortillas folded in half. Although significant, the marriage of Lebanese and Mexican culture is rarely discussed. In fact, the wealthiest man in Mexico, Carlos Slim, is the son of Lebanese immigrants. When the two cuisines meet, all of our palates reap the reward.
In order to create her version of "tacos al pastor", Chef Torres traveled to Mexico frequently, collecting recipes and learning from the locals. The final result reflects her diligence--complete with a pineapple based salsa concoction that gives the perfect zest, Torres adds her own spice rub from peppers that she grinds by hand at her restaurant. The combination of spices, pork and salsa is a melody of flavors perfectly complimented by a margarita. ¡SABROSO! Dreams do come true at Sueños!
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