After we arrived on location for our shoot at One if by Land, Two if by Sea, our crew reminisced about the anniversaries, engagements, birthdays and other romantic occasions they celebrated there. Yet we all decided that that this cozy townhouse would not be the backdrop for a starry-eyed rendezvous. Instead, we would enjoy the warmth of the ambiance to kick off the holiday season. As much as I relish traditional holiday fare like turkey, ham, steak and rack of lamb, I wanted to step out of my comfort zone and take my creativity to the next level.
Chef Craig Hopson discovered his culinary skills by working in kitchens so he'd have more time to surf the beaches of Australia. Who better to reinvent holiday meals with me than a man with such a sense of adventure? Thanks to Hopson, my friend Sharon Ambramzon and I had a true multicultural holiday experience with none other than partridge, pigeon and pomegranates!
When it came to revamping the conventional Yuletide dinner, Hopson really helped Sharon and me "step up our game."
The day before Thanksgiving, NYC is dead. It's a day to flee from the city and get started spending your holidays with loved ones. It is also a day to enjoy great food from a chef who hasn't run home to his family.
It was freezing outside, but it was warm and homey inside Joe Doe in the East Village. Decorated with items from their childhoods and homes, the 30-seater restaurant has some good personality infused from its owners, boyfriend and girlfriend team Joe Dobias and Jill Schulster. Joe reigns from my alma mater, Cornell University, and has refined his style at restaurants such as Blue Ginger, owned by Ming Tsai, Blue Grotto, Tupelo Grill and others. The result is a seasonal American menu with unusual flavor combinations.
We started off with some batter-fried chickpeas and moved on to the beets & butt. Who knew pork butt could be so flavorful and juicy? Each bite melted in my mouth. I didn't get a chance to eat the beets, although I'm sure they were good, as my friend Alba has already inhaled them by the time I reached over to taste her plate. I did, however, enjoy the last few bites of her English muffin.
The Maine hardshell lobster was succulent and well-seasoned although it was crying for a bit of citrus. Our entrées had high points and low points. The Cabrito was inventive, and had unsuspecting ingredients. The portions were generous, which was convenient as we were a hungry bunch. The Cod Irish Style was flaky and tender, but a bit under-seasoned. My butternut gnocchi was above average, but not memorable. Desserts were a highlight with a new interpretation of banana bread that left us feeling warm and fuzzy inside. The Turkish flatbread with wildflower honey custard was smooth and creamy with a crunch. The pecan sandies in the Maple Syrup Tapioca were also a crowd pleaser.
Beet and pork? English muffin appetizer? Turkish flatbread for dessert? Clearly, this young and talented chef has been thinking out of the box. His menu displays his rebelion of not being allowed to share his creativity with his diners given his role of a chef being supervised at other restaurants. Now that he's on his own, he's left to his own devices. We think his imagination is spot on at times and a bit far-reached at others.
Divya Gugnani
Joe Doe
45 East 1st Street
New York, NY 10003
212.780.0262
Nestled on the corner of quaint tree lined streets in Greenwich Village, Chef Joey Campanaro's tiny restaurant called The Little Owl is the perfect place to feature truffles because they both have an element of secrecy that we are about to expose...
Truffles are mysterious and often misunderstood. They aren't attractive, they look like small brown dirt formations from another planet; and they smell even worse--pungent, like stale gym socks due for a wash. How can truffles be considered the crowned king of gourmet foods? Your taste buds will give you the answer as soon as you indulge in a pasta, risotto, egg dish, or foie gras preparation accented with these miraculous wonders.
First you need to find them. Truffles are not easily accessible. They are only available in a few countries and they are found beneath the earth, hunted by specially trained dogs and pigs. Vincent Jeansaume from Sabatino Tartufi (see Featured Promotions), one of the largest truffle purveyors in the U.S., told me that some truffles hunters have lost fingers while extracting the treasure from the pigs who wanted to eat the food they worked so hard to sniff and dig out of the ground. Truffles are seasonal which means you can only enjoy white truffles in October and November and black truffles in the late autumn and winter, not to be confused with the black summer truffles that are enjoyed during the warm months. The rarity of the fungi and the pains people have to go through to find them creates a steep price point. Truffles can range from $1400-$2700 a pound. Savored by the rich and famous, casino owner Stanley Ho reportedly paid $330,000 for a single white truffle weighing just a little more than 3 pounds.
It takes a special place to feature something as rare and precious as truffles, which is why we asked Chef Campanaro to use them to make a special dish at his restaurant. Inspired by his Spanish wife, Paula, Chef Campanaro created an intimate setting with food so popular that it is nearly impossible to book a table. There are only 26 seats at The Little Owl. If you are fortunate enough to book a table, you are in for a unique culinary experience. But getting the reservation is only half the battle, to reach this destination you need to navigate the winding cobbles stone streets of Greenwich Village to find this hidden treasure.
Once inside, you will have a tough time choosing a dish from his menu of bold Mediterranean cuisine. However, for Behind the Burner Chef Campanaro made a special trufflerisotto and even used truffles to top off a beautiful asparagus appetizer. A gasp filled the room when Vincent showed up with a box full of Sabatino truffles (see Featured Promotions). It wasn't the stench that caused the reaction; it was the large quantity that left everyone speechless. Chef Campanaro said that some cooks are scared to incorporate truffles in their food because they are so expensive. Fortunately, he wasn't afraid because the truffles made his dishes extra fabulous! The secret is out, truffles and The Little Owl make for a heavenly culinary experience.
Caroline Alexa McBride
The Little Owl
90 Bedford Street
New York, NY
212.741.4695
I have a soft spot for accents (especially Australian) as most American women do; so when Divya asked me to accompany her to a Yellingbo Olive Oil tasting hosted by Australian Jeremy Meltzer, I did not hesitate for a moment. We headed to Rockwood Music Hall on the Lower East Side, expecting a typical olive oil tasting, but we were definitely in for a surprise.
Starved when I arrived, I jumped right into the carpaccio and asparagus appetizers, which were less than thrilling. Surprisingly, my favorite one was the wild smoked salmon, capers, and sea salt with the Yellingbo Gold Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Thank goodness I didn't look at the sign denoting the ingredients before I tried it, because I can't stand the taste of salmon. How our minds can trick our taste buds! However, in the end, my Italian learned philosophy of simplicity where food is concerned proved true, as I most enjoyed simply dipping the bread in the olive oil itself.
I must say that I was a bit skeptical about the quality of an Australian made olive oil, but the wine industry seemed to do a nice job, an idea verified by the glass of Stonehaven Shiraz I drank. I was also quite shocked with the packaging of the oil as it was in a cardboard cask with a spout, rather than in a traditional bottle or tin. My initial thought was "Is this oil going to be the equivalent to Franzia in the wine world?" However, the oil proved to be light, peppery, and absolutely delicious. The packaging actually keeps the oil fresher due to the lack of exposure to air. Also being an eco-friendly person, I loved the fact that the cask is completely recyclable.
After the appetizers and some wine, Jeremy gave a presentation about the creation of the first Australian olive oil on the market. I was further taken by more than just the Australian accent, as he spoke about how his father planted olives trees while the rest of the family was on vacation; then how he himself traipsed through the snow with a small suitcase in tow to sell the first bottles of Yellingbo to gourmet stores in Manhattan with frostbitten hands. He came close to losing family in the tsunami in India, which resulted in Yellingbo donating a percentage of their profits on each bottle to the Jasmine Foundation for orphaned children.
As if philanthropy and great olive oil weren't enough to impress me and make me a true believer in the capabilities of Australian production in the world market, Meltzer astounded me once more when after his speech he began to sing romance songs in Spanish on the tiny red-lit stage. Is there anything else in the bag of surprises? One dollar from each of his CDs, entitled Moments, is donated to the United Nations Trust Fund to End Violence Against Women.
Jeremy said during the course of the evening that, "Handpicking olives is romantic for about 30 minutes," then you bribe your workers with food. Much like handpicking olives, the allure of an accent can fade once we find out about the person behind it. However, in Jeremy Meltzer's case the soft spot only grew softer with such a unique and generous vision to olive oil, music, and life. No bribe needed. I'm sold.
My friend's recent birthday party at Lucky Strike Lanes was a unique diversion and a reminder about the growing popularity of cupcakes. I was late as usual from being tied up at the office, and thus greeted with a cold array of fatty foods that I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole--chicken wings, greasy fries, mini-burgers and something covered in hardened cheese. No dinner for this nutrition fanatic! Resigned to the fact that my stomach growls would have to go ignored, I glanced over and noticed Nightclub aficionado Noah Teppenburg a few lanes away. Before venturing over to say hello, I was distracted by the nearby cupcake tree calling for me. Not exactly a healthy substitute for dinner but they looked so irresistible! Stacked in a beautiful triangle formation with different hued thick, creamy frosting topping each little treat, I quickly reached out for one.
The cupcake craze continues to grow as more and more birthday cakes are being replaced by their mini-counterparts. When I moved to New York City about seven years ago, a friend introduced me to Magnolia Bakery. I stood in-line with the hip West Villagers and after finally taking my first bite of the creamy sugary delight, I was convinced that the wait was well worth it. But aside from the occasional cupcake indulgence during afternoon strolls, I've noticed that cupcakes are often being served in lieu of the traditional birthday cake. One obvious attraction is the convenience, as there is no need to cut them and serve them on plates with forks. They've even been springing up at children's parties, including my young nieces' gatherings in California. Creativity flows as they are often organized in fun shapes, arrangements, and colors, allowing kids and adults alike to gleefully choose their favorites amongst chocolate, vanilla, red velvet, or other flavors with differing frostings.
The competition is fierce in the cupcake market. In addition to Magnolia Bakery made famous by Sex In The City; Buttercup Bake Shop, Baked, Sugar Sweet Sunshine, and Babycakes NYC all boast loyal clientele addicted to their moist palm sized treats. However, Chelsea's Billy's Bakery cupcakes stole the show at my friend's party. So while I resisted the high calorie dinner fare, I couldn't deny the cupcakes. After all, I had to be a good sport and celebrate such a joyous occasion. Perhaps, I didn't need to have three... but I do work hard at the gym and I deserve to splurge once in awhile, right? Well, maybe we should keep it between us!
Next time you are planning a birthday party, why not break with tradition and put your candles in cupcakes? They are simple to serve, and you can please all of your guests by offering a variety to satisfy everyone's particular sweet tooth desire. But try not to eat three!
Subscribe to our Feed >
Join Our Facebook Group >
Follow us on twitter >
View our Flickr Photostream >
