Spicy Sichuan Warms the Heart
When the chef realized the next dish he had to prepare, he was in utter disbelief. According to the 100 percent Sichuan staff, the only people who ever order this dish are Sichuan natives and sometimes "the young". Not counting on having many adventuresome palates present on a slow Tuesday night, preparing frog seemed an unlikely task.
In the Sichuan region of China, frog is quite common. Since it is complete protein and has no fat, it's considered to be extremely healthy. Cooked in a spicy, reddish sauce, the frog was delicious. It didn't taste like chicken, but it was completely tender and had a mild taste all its own. Served with colorful vegetables and a gelatin substance made from a plant only found in the hills of Sichuan that is said to cure cancer, I was completely enjoying this course, just beginning to understand Wa Jeal everything traditional Sichuan cuisine has to offer.
Located on the Upper East Side, Wa Jeal is quickly becoming one of the most desirable restaurants to visit. The reason for this is because in every Sichuan dish Wa Jeal has, you are offered a lesson in culture. The secret to Sichuan and the secret to Wa Jeal is all in the spices. In fact, the name Wa Jeal itself is the name of a completely unique spice that can be found near the owner's hometown. It has a pungent aroma, a slight kick, and when it's chewed, its numbing capacity is astounding. Almost all Sichuan dishes contain a large combination of different spices that create an intense heat and flavor, but like the spice Wa Jeal, they also seem to have other health or healing benefits. The heat in Sichuan food alone is said to help people keep weight off; although if you're not into spicy entree items, you can always special order your food at Wa Jeal.
Although Wa Jeal offers typical Cantonese cuisine (the most typical Chinese fare), authentic Sichuan cooking fills the heart and soul of the restaurant. I found that to learn to cook in the traditional Sichuan way is impossible. It's a technique that one shapes and crafts from early childhood. With all of the complex spices, even an experienced Western palate would have a difficult time trying to detect what the majority of them are. One example is the Sesame Noodle Appetizer plate that is sold almost 200 times a day, containing 15 different spices, most of them secret.
Since Sichuan is China's largest region, the diversity of food is immense. Two other dishes I tried were comprised of duck and lamb. The marinated duck was smoked for hours just like barbeque, so that the juicy meat fell straight off the bone. The skin was crispy and had a great flavor. After the duck, the lamb with mixed vegetables was served. The lamb was cooked with the Wa Jeal spice and had a unique flavor that was very new to me.
After dinner, it was finally time for drinks. In many Asian cultures, drink and food are enjoyed separately. The 100 proof rice liquor that I sipped from a shot glass was better than any grappa or cognac I've ever tasted. It went down smoothly and left me with a relaxed, warm feeling.
If you aren't traveling to China anytime soon, stopping by Wa Jeal for a weeknight dinner is the perfect way to try new things and learn a little bit about Sichuan culture from people who will get into your heart, as well as your stomach.
— Written by Valerie Cario
Photo credit: Wa Jeal
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