Spherical Sustenance at Bobo
Antiqued ambience is the ethos of West Village bi-level haunt, Bobo. The restaurant comes complete with an understated hard-to-find entrance, filament bulbs and candles under vaulted ceilings and an upstairs garden for dining in (or is it on?). Every New Yorker will probably agree this is the stuff that makes our jaded hearts turn happy.
If the décor alone doesn’t get you sated then Chef Patrick Connolly’s new summer menu just might do the trick. A canapé of devilled eggs topped with pickles and capers are devilishly fun to pop into the mouth. It was difficult restraining myself from getting three orders of these perfectly whipped yolks in their fluffy egg white vessels—an interminable problem I have with canapés.
The Jonah Crab Cakes gives good crunch with a sapid accompaniment of aioli, vegetable crudités and my favorite herb in the garden, basil. This summertime fare is particularly pleasing due its juxtaposition of density and pillow-like, almost ethereal composition. A crab cake that lacks a fluffy center with a crisp crust is missing a duality that will result in D.D. (diner’s displeasure) —not the case at Bobo.
Connolly’s take on Handmade Potato Gnocchi with roasted mushrooms, ramp greens and pecorino was the third circular course I feasted upon at Bobo. If you’re a traditionalist who shan’t deign to stray from a classic Gnocchi Marinara then this dish may upset you, just a hair. However, I maintain it was light and earthy… a quintessential summer pasta. Keeping true to the theme of fluffy orbs for the evening, the gnocchi brought the meal—full circle.
A warning: be careful descending the dark staircase on your way out of Bobo. If you do make it down the rickety steps (which somehow make this place even more charming), you might want to have your nightcap at the bar on the first floor.
Why spend the cab fare on relocating to an after dinner drinks spot when you have it all right there on West 10th Street?
— Written by Sarah Polonsky
Photo credit: Bobo
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