Sapori D'Ischia: A Lesson in Decadence
It's probably cliché to call Sapori D'Ischia a "hidden gem" or a "diamond in the rough," so let's paint a picture instead. It's about 7pm as you walk down a desolate stretch of Northern Boulevard. You pass warehouses, parking lots and hardware stores. Just when you're ready to give up and write the neighborhood off as an industrial wasteland, you notice the twinkle of lights up ahead. This would be the twinkle of none other than Sapori D'Ischia, Antonio Galano's Italian specialty foods store turned restaurant.
After spending years working as a wholesaler, Galano and his family opened Sapori in 1999, integrating many of the same products they were importing into the menu, which also may explain the extremely reasonable prices. Upon entering Sapori D'Ischia, the bleak surroundings seem to vanish and give way to the warm and romantic ambiance of a restaurant aglow with candles and music. But enough about the surroundings — once the smell of freshly shaved truffles wafts out of the kitchen, nothing else seems to matter and your focus will inevitably turn to the food.
Sapori D'Ischia offers a $50 four-course seasonal truffle tasting menu every Tuesday night, which is without a doubt one of the best deals I've heard about in a long time. This is good news to truffle lovers, and even better news to wine lovers. Galano's wine list is almost as impressive as his menu, and he offers rare bottles of Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Amarone at extremely affordable prices. Cocktails, playfully named after hot rod cars such as the Lamborghini (which consists of Prosecco infused with Meyer lemons and basil), are well crafted and are the perfect way to kick off to a food-filled evening.
A first course of chestnut soup drizzled with truffle oil and sprinkled with fresh white truffle shavings had a velvety texture and a hint of sweetness which brought out the delicate flavor of the nuts. This would probably be an appropriate time to mention that the portions here are anything but stingy, and the following pasta course consisting of a heaping pile of fresh fettuccine with creamy tomato sauce, fresh truffle shavings and prosciutto di Parma, drove this point home. Both ethereally light and rich at the same time, the pasta had that delightfully chewy texture that is only achieved by hand-rolling.
Pan-seared veal chops served over roasted fingerling potatoes, asparagus and carrots was drizzled with a rich truffle jus reduction— all the garnish this dish needed. Dessert consisted of a Bosc pear poached in wine, topped with a dollop of vanilla gelato, a drizzle of truffled honey and a light sprinkling of truffle salt. Although intense, the flavors worked well together and presented themselves in layers as the flavors of soft pears and honey were slowly enhanced by the crunch of truffle salt.
"Hidden gem" or not, Sapori D'Ischia is worth the wait (and walk) any day of the week.
— Written by Lisa Curry
Photo credit: nydailynews.com
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