My first memorable outdoor cooking experience involved a whole pig, an open spit, about twenty or so families with numerous children of varying ages and a whole lot of waiting. I was a child of seven, living in the suburbs of St. Louis and attending the first of an annual barbecue. It was during the summer, around a holiday weekend and even could have been the Fourth of July. But, the one lasting memory of that day was of a giant hog skewered from snout to tail, roasting over an open pit, with men standing around conversing, beers in hand and turning the carcass occasionally—waiting, waiting and waiting for the pig to fully cook.

Of course, the adults underestimated the duration of time such a large animal would take to prepare. The main person in charge was my father. With a beer or Bloody Mary in tow he was as dedicated as ever to finish the task at hand. We must have eaten slightly after sunset, and I can easily imagine my father saying, "These things take time, deary," with his trademark wry grin to his many inquisitors, knowing full well that the mistake was his alone.

As every Father's Day rolls around, I think of that day so many years ago and how much of a real blessing it was. With the exception of early morning golf round, there is no better way to spend a Father's Day outdoors than over a grill. And, with outdoor grilling season in full swing and a plethora of interesting baseball matchups, the approaching Father's Day looks like the perfect opportunity to fire up the grill, turn on the radio and spend time with dad and loved ones.

BBQ Throwdown

We all know grilling is serious business. For some unknown reason cooking outdoors over an open flame brings out the competitive spirit in all of us. Competitions from coast to coast honor those with the best marinades, smoked meats, barbecue sauces, brisket and most succulent pork shoulder, to name a few, over the summer months. A cloud of smoke may be rising from Texas alone, due to its numerous statewide competitions.

For most purists a converted oil drum is the gold standard in grilling. Large, sturdy and able to withstand the elements, the oil drum replicates a convection oven well. So, it is best for indirect cooking or slow cooking. Building a fire on one side placing the meat on another, adding needed wood chips or charcoal every hour or so, sitting back, napping and waiting, turning the meat occasionally and letting the day delicately breeze past are the ways of the oil drum. Seems like perfection, and in many ways it is, but there is one slight drawback. It is a bulky and heavy contraption and not practical for the outdoor city cook, where tight quarters often begets creativity. So, most of us opt for a more realistic solution, especially in New York, where kitchens, at times, are mere afterthoughts.

In most cases, the legendary Weber Grill suites most grilling situations, and produces the best results. The dome shape, again, replicates the convection oven and the heavy-gauge porcelain-enameled lid and bowl are perfect heat conductors. The classic shape comes in various sizes, ranging from a 14.5 inch to a 22.5 inch cooking diameter, making it suitable for most outdoor cooking scenarios.

The Pitmaster's Toolbelt

Success in grilling involves having the right tools. No matter how good the marinade or dry rub may be, the end result often relies, solely, on having the necessary gear. Billy Barlow, executive chef at Bonita on Dekalb Avenue in Brooklyn, offers this advice, "Having what you need is integral: A grill, a chimney to start the fire, charcoal, wood chips, meat, tongs, a grill thermometer and plenty of time." With these elemental pieces in places, the creativity process is endless. Barlow recently grilled two whole goats, about 15 pounds field dressed each, from Consider Bardwell Farm, located near the Vermont, New York border. He says, "Goat was a must include when my grandfather was grilling, who was from southwest Arkansas, so I thought why not give it a go myself."

Grilling traditions often stay within the family. There is usually no formal training, distinguishing it from other cooking techniques. Like forgotten oral traditions, grilling relies heavily on familial legacy. Behind the Burner expert Pete Daversa, pit master of Hill Country in New York says, "Growing up, I had always looked up to my older brothers. One of their favorite foods is baby back ribs. My dad always told me that to be the best you need to learn from the best."

In fact, a good starting point for the novice pit master is the rib: beef or pork. Ribs have the ability to delight the masses without taking an entirety to cook. Brisket, pork shoulder, or rump roasts, not to mention whole animals, can take an entire day to smoke properly. While ribs, too, may be slow smoked, they can also be prepared in under three hours. But, if time is of no consequence, use it in its entirety. "Be Patient! Don't rush the BBQ," says Daversa. With the addition of a good dry rub and simple sauce, ribs are a perfect backyard delicacy and inexpensive to boot.

Seasoned Pros

For seasoned veterans volumes upon volumes about grilling techniques, ingredients, and methods have already been penned, with many more to come for sure. Daversa offers this simple dry rub for his chili-rubbed smoked lamb chops. His inclusion of mustard powder, garlic, paprika, cayenne and New Mexican chili powder, among others completely extinguishes the thought of using a marinade on the lamb. The proof is in the pudding.

Philosophies vary down even down to the variety of wood used for smoking. "When smoking brisket, ribs, chicken and pork loin as a child my father would use oak and pecan chips. He would let them dry, so as to burn hot which is good for finishing the meat," says Barlow. Some circles even opt for pecan or walnut shells to add a touch of sweetness to the meat.

Regardless of one's philosophy on sweetness of sauce, type of wood chip (soaked or unsoaked), cut of meat and duration of cooking time, grilling has the sheer ability to unite us all together. It is the one primal cooking method that personifies communion at the table. And, dad would be proud of any grilling prowess as long as he could be present this coming Father's Day.