Mediterranean Mussels: Peaches of the Sea

Why are Americans far less enthusiastic mussel eaters than the rest of the world? For one thing, only fairly recently have they've been extensively cultivated in North America, and thus widely available. Nor have they benefited, like a certain bivalve brethren, from a starring role in regional dishes like New England clam chowder and festive affairs like clam bakes. Americans line up at clam shacks, not mussel shacks. "I think the traditional view here has been that mussels were something that clung to pilings and rocks along the beach," says Bill Taylor. "Most people never thought of them as food, rather more like a barnacle, as a nuisance organism that attaches to things."

As president of family-owned, fourth-generation Taylor Shellfish of Shelton, Washington, Taylor knows his mussels. He oversees the company's production and shipment of clams, oysters, geoducks and Mediterranean mussels, heralded as sweet as a peach. For the last decade and a half, Taylor Shellfish has been farming this species of mussel in the southern reaches of Puget Sound and has now built production to the point where its bivalves are becoming known and loved on the West Coast of North America, from Vancouver to San Diego--and by mussel lovers nationwide, via mail order. "From May through October, when they're at their best, we harvest and ship 30,000 pounds of mussels a week," says Taylor. Taylor Shellfish grows its mussels on southern end of Puget Sound not far from Olympia, on traditional 30-foot by 30-foot rafts with weighted ropes that hang down 10 to 12 feet into the nutrient-rich water.

In France, they're farmed differently, harvested from stakes called bouchots driven into the seabed, in a manner that dates to 1235 and the lucky discovery of an Irishman named Patrick Walton. Shipwrecked off the coast of France, Walton attempted to capture sea birds in nets he strung above the water on poles. He netted few if any birds, but did manage a considerable catch beneath the waves: mussels below the high tide mark on the poles.

The mussels most often on ice in American markets arrive from either Prince Edward Island, off Canada's northeast coast, or from New Zealand, known for its green-lipped variety. They typically run 20 to 30 per pound--and they are excellent prepared any number of ways, especially as the classic Moules Mariniere, cooked with white wine and garlic and parsley, or as part of a sumptuous shellfish stew. Mediterranean mussels are harvested twice as large. At 10 to 15 to a pound, they're more versatile in the kitchen. As big and plump as oysters, they do nicely baked on the half shell and fry just as well, too.

Thank goodness for mail order. Now, even though I'm 3,000 miles away from Puget Sound I can answer the front doorbell and find 10 lbs of Mediterranean mussels direct from Taylor Shellfish awaiting me. I cooked my most recent shipment two ways. First, I experimented with absolute simplicity--mussels in a hot skillet. While your skillet is heating, clean the mussels. Brush them free of exterior debris with a scrub brush and pull off their beard (the dark stringy material hangs from many shells). Then, into the hot skillet add nothing but a handful of mussels. No oil, no butter, no wine. After a few moments, the mussels will pop open one by one and their liquor will flash in the pan. When several have opened, dump in the rest of the mussels, some minced garlic, and some chopped parsley. Cover the pan and steam the mussels till they open completely. (Always discard any that don't oblige). At this point, most varieties of mussels will be ready to serve. But give these larger, Mediterranean mussels an extra minute or two. Then plate and enjoy the sweet feast.

— Written by John Grossmann

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