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If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.

- J.R.R. Tolkien

From London to New York: Le Caprice

Behind the Burner: From London to New York: Le Caprice

While in Europe last spring, I was very selective in my travel destinations. As a foodie looking to explore new cuisine, London was not high on my list. Fish and chips have never made the cut for me, but I gave British dining a second chance while back in the States this summer.

I recently learned that Le Caprice translates to "whim" in English, and its meaning couldn't be any more true to my experience. Aside from reading a few reviews and scanning their online menu, I arrived not knowing much about this new Upper East Side hot spot. However, I left with not only new knowledge, but a change of taste, and discovered a new love and appreciation for English cuisine.

An elegant restaurant adjoining the Pierre Hotel, the restaurant has an almost retro look, complete with photos of model Jean Shrimptom in New York circa 1960, and the décor strikes the perfect balance between elegance and trendiness. Although its ritzy 5th Avenue location may make it a prime target to stereotypes, Le Caprice is definitely an exception.

When I first heard Executive Chef Michael Hartnell has lived in New York for less than a year, I couldn't understand how he learned to please hungry New Yorkers so quickly (it's harder than most think). With a regular menu featuring British classics as well as seasonal specials, deciding what to order isn't easy.

But since first thing's first, we started with cocktails. Raspberry mojitos and bellini martinis were updated twists on the classics. Usually not a fan of mint, I was thrilled to enjoy a mojito that highlighted the freshness of summer berries. But the bellini martini truly blew my mind— your average Sunday brunch cocktail rejuvenated with vodka, fresh peach purée and topped off with Champagne. With one sip I felt like royalty.

And I ate like royalty too. We started off with baked goat cheese served with a baby carrots, artichokes, fava beans, slivered radishes and peas. Spread atop their delicious warm olive rolls, this appetizer was perfection (I'm dying to return just to pair this dish with the heirloom tomato salad for a satisfying light lunch). The freshness of the tomatoes and the goat cheese made me feel as if I were back in Italy— not an easy feat.

Somehow, I still had room for more. I opted to try the classic Caprice burger, which arrived garnished with fresh lettuce, tomatoes, and onions. Although this meaty devil was about two times the size of my mouth (and maybe even my appetite), that didn't stop me. Yet the real star of the dish was the ketchup relish it was served with. Brought to me in a gravy boat rather than a tiny cup, I knew immediately it must be worth trying. Sweet and saturated with flavor, this definitely replaced typical salty ketchup for me.

My coworker ordered the Thai sea bass. Wrapped in a banana leaf and garnished with asparagus, the dish was one of the most beautifully plated entrées I have ever seen. A thin coating of an Asian-spiced peanut sauce was the perfect compliment to the bass, which was delicately cooked and had no trouble melting in my mouth. The bass is served with sticky rice that is indeed as fragrant as the menu states, and I could smell a mix of fresh herbs as soon as the lid was lifted.

And finally, the Eton Mess: a heavenly mixture of strawberries and cream topped with crunchy meringue, this dessert gives classic strawberry shortcake a run for its money. The best part is its lightness, which allowed me to enjoy yet another option, the ruby plum tart enchanted by sea salt caramel. I say "enchanted" because the dish really was magical, something ordinary hands could not master. Fresh from the oven, this soft tart embedded with warm plums and caramel sweetness was the perfect ending to my meal.

So yes, I may have regrets for not encountering the mouth watering world of English cuisine while I lived across the Atlantic. Yet with Le Caprice now in New York, The uptown R train is my new alternative to British Airways.

— Written by Joanna Weinstein

Photo credit: Le Caprice

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