Dining Destinations: Via dei Mille

As you walk down West Broadway through a quaint section of SoHo towards Via dei Mille, most diners are would expect to find a typical Italian meal within the aged brick building that houses the restaurant. Upon entering the restaurant, however, this feeling of predictability quickly disintegrates.

The restaurant's décor is sleek and elegant: white linen tablecloths, a dangling crystal chandelier, candlelit tables with roses. But this romantic setting is immediately countered by monumental pop art portraits that adorn the walls (the restaurant regularly features the work of local artists), which give the restaurant a fresh, contemporary vibe. This play between the classic and the modern is present not only in the décor, but also the in the food, and Chef Emanuele Simeoni succeeds in surprising diners with what he can do with rustic ingredients.

An appetizer tart of Montasio cheese and prosciutto may sound simple, but Chef Simeoni transforms the meat into an irresistibly tender cake that melts in your mouth. Served atop fresh Bufala mozzarella with a peppery arugula pesto, this dish makes you reconsider the possibilities that these basic Italian ingredients present. Another appetizer of succulent grilled octopus was served with paper-thin slices of celery and a creamy potato sauce spiked with a hint of horseradish. This dish was creative yet satisfying, and proved to be a sophisticated combination of summery flavors.

An entrée of seared branzino served over slow-cooked organic brown lentils and artichoke purée was topped off with a sprig of crispy fried parsley— a fascinating interplay of textures and flavors. Chef Simeoni strikes the perfect balance between lentils and artichoke, and the two flavors come together on the plate to create a delicate sauce that complements the fish. Not to be missed is the entrée of Chilean sea bass: accented with a silky purée of cauliflower and shavings of fresh summer truffles, these were luxurious touches that contrasted nicely to the firm texture of the fish.

Drinks and desserts can often be bland afterthoughts, however Via dei Mille's bartenders and pastry chefs prove this is not the case here. House-made sangria is presented in elegant fluted glasses, while after-dinner drinks are shaken up with traditional Italian liqueurs and garnished with shaved chocolate— all of which are sweet alternatives to dessert.

But skipping dessert here would not be advisable. Panna cotta served with strawberry coulis was creamy and smooth without a trace of rubbery gelatin. Delicate slices of fresh strawberry infused flavor throughout the entire dessert, providing the perfect amount of tartness. Other sweet successes include a light-as-air tiramisu and a ricotta mousse studded with fresh berries and candied celery.

Chef Emanuele Simeoni has mastered the art of taking simple ingredients and transforming them into something completely artistic and unexpected. So the next time you find yourself walking through SoHo, stop in to sip some sangria, admire the art and indulge in this inventive Italian fare.

— Written by Lisa Curry

Photo credit: Via dei Mille

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